Bali-licious

One Being's Offering is Another's Lunch

We met an Australian tourist who said that the food in Ubud is terrible -- the portions are small and the noodles are ramen. After almost a cumulative month of amazing gastronomy in Ubud, we all looked at each other in disbelief. We have no idea where this guy was taking his meals.

Ubud is the heart of Balinese art, music, and food. Smooth, sweet, homemade white brem (unfiltered sake-like rice wine) served on ice with lime, bubur injin (black rice pudding with coconut cream), bubur ayam or soto ayam (chicken rice porridge or chicken noodle soup), crepes filled with palm sugar and fresh coconut, lamek, and babi guling (roast suckling pig) kept us all ecstatically satiated.

Many of the restaurants offer cooking classes. We took a class at Casa Luna, owned and operated by Janet de Neefe, an Australian immigrant who married a Balinese and is raising their four children Balinese style. The couple owns a guesthouse and two restaurants. Janet has also authored a couple of books. I read Fragrant Rice, her biography, which also includes recipes.

Morning Market

Our cooking class included a trip to the market. The slimy, gelatinous green drink below, high in antioxidants and not unlike primordial soup, is popular with locals, especially as a morning pick-me-up.

Mangosteens, Yum!

Palm Sugar Out of Coconut Shell Mold

In Which Eric Is the Only Volunteer to Peel Eels

Eric Woks It Up With Janet de Neefe

Balinese Cremation Ceremony

Death in Bali involves one of the biggest and most important of Balinese rituals - cremation. This way the body/soul is returned to the four elements of earth, fire, air, and water, and the soul is free to move on to its next life.

Cremation ceremonies are quite expensive. The body may be buried until it can be cremated along with richer deceased, until relatives have saved up for cremation, or until an auspicious day. Sometimes this means weeks, sometimes years. But when it happens, it is an epic, joyful event.

When someone dies, the family lights lanterns around the house to notify the community. Then they prepare food as usual and offer it to the deceased, to keep up their connection with the deceased. The soul remains with the body for three days. The body is then buried if not to be cremated right away, or taken to the temple and prepared for cremation.

For cremation of the buried, the bones are exhumed and sprinkled with holy water. All of the bones may be wrapped up for cremation, or just some of them and a wood carving symbolic of the deceased's soul. The body is brought to the temple and prepared as above, then placed along with offerings into the procession tower. The processional moves from the temple to the cremation grounds, where the body and offerings are moved from the tower to large papier mache-type bulls that will carry the souls to heaven. The bulls are burned along with the procession tower. After the deceased's bones have cooled, the family takes the bones (which may be ground by a priest) in coconut shells to be thrown into the sea, the final step in releasing the soul to its next life.

The whole community is invited to the cremation, including tourists. The intention is the more the merrier in order to send the soul off to heaven and its new life. All attendees wear sarongs to show respect for the occasion.

Waiting for the Procession to Begin

Selling Sarongs to Tourists in Front of the Temple

Blessing Offerings

Placing Bodies Into the Procession Tower

Family Emerging From Temple

Carrying the Tower

Bulls Will Carry the Souls to Heaven

Processions Were A Lot Easier Before Electricity Came Along

More Procession Pics

Offerings and Bodies Placed in Bull

Soul on Its Way to Heaven

Quintessential Bali (May and June)

Big Bali

Little Bali

Where do you begin to talk of Bali? With the epic mountains and volcanoes, the tinkling charm of the gamelan orchestra, the mesmerizing dances, the full canvas of foliage, the laughing children, the seaweed plots and rice terraces, the fragrant flowers popping with color, the succulent food, the ubiquitous, sensual art, the crystalline water and coral reefs, the air potent with chi?

What permeates all of this is spirituality. In their own unique blend of Hinduism, Buddhism, and animalism, the Balinese bring together the spiritual with the profane (or at least the practical) in every aspect of life. This is evident in the offerings they make and set out daily, everywhere, from homes to businesses to cars to boats to rice fields; one up high for the good spirits' protection and one set low to appease the bad spirits and maybe encourage them to be good. The offerings are almost always a small, handmade banana-leaf basket containing just rice or any combination of rice, flowers, incense, small foods such as nuts or small Ritz crackers, cigarettes, alcohol, and bottles of water. It is not unusual to accidentally trip over the offerings in doorways or on sidewalks, or for dogs or monkeys to sniff through them and eat the food. Not to worry! The energy of the offering is effective upon the intention and placement of the offering; what happens after that is of little consequence. The balance of good/bad yin/yang is also depicted in the black and white cloth Balinese wear and tie around sacred statues. Additionally, Balinese rituals can involve various forms of animal sacrifice, from baby chicks to water buffalo, and amulets, charms, and potions for everything from protection from volcanoes, to abundant harvests, to winning love.

Dark Bali

Light Bali

Happy Anniversary and Drinkies 7.5 (May)

May 7 was the six-month anniversary of our travels. We can hardly believe it. India, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Singapore, and Bali, and that's only the first half of this amazing year. Even more, we get to meet up and travel with friends old and new. We aren't sure what we did to deserve this, but we know we are truly blessed and are grateful.

With Holly K, Rob and Holly T, and our new friend Jacob along, how could we not call Drinkies 7.5?!

Drinkies 7.5 ~ Tropis Club, Kalibukbuk, Bali

Clockwise starting lower left: Holly T and Rob, Jacob, me, Holly K, and Eric

Todd says he thinks we are lying about the names of places we've been. He thinks we're actually calling from a pay phone across the street from our house in Mt. View: "Hi, how's it going, we're in er, um, Kalibukbuk . . . ."

Sad News and Requests

While I was visiting home in April, my dear old friend Gary Gaines received a diagnosis of cancer located in various places in his body. Gary is the brother of my (still beloved) former husband Randy (hi Ran!). While we were in high school, Gary would drive us to dances (and dance like a madman). He drove us over the hill to Santa Cruz, many times, in his amazing sky blue convertible Thunderbird. Gary was also the husband of my best friend of 13 years, Kathy. We raised our kids together with a lot of life, love, and joy. (Kathy died of cancer in 1989, when our youngest kids were eight years old.) Gary is such a vibrant life force that it seems against nature for him to be so ill.

Gary is getting care in Fresno, CA. His grown children and other family members are caring for him too.

Please take a moment to send Gary and his family your prayers, affirmations, and healing energy for health, strength, and peace.

If you too are an old friend of Gary's and would like to track his progress, send me email and I'll forward you the blog his daughter is keeping.

My heart is heavy. I think of Gary and family every day, and send them prayers and healing.

Additionally, I recently heard from Todd telling me he had to make the heartrending decision and have our cat Spike put to sleep. Spike passed away in Todd's arms. Please raise a glass to Spike (milk being his favorite bev), help us give him a great send-off to his next life, and send Todd your prayers of love and support.

Spike and My Dad

It seems almost odd for me to be in paradise (Bali at the moment) while all of this is happening. Past experience also tells me, though, that living our best lives, in love, awareness, and vibrancy, is the best we can do.

Current Schedule

4/15: Fly from Singapore to Bali
4/15-5/11: Bali!
4/15-5/3ish: Ubud
5/3ish: on to Lovina, Sanur
5/11-5/15: Visa run in Singapore
5/15: Return to Bali. Wouldn't you?!!!!
6/12: Singapore, then on to Malaysia, northern Thailand, maybe Laos

Sapa and Trek Back to Hanoi (March)

Sapa is a hill town located in northwestern Vietnam, and it is all about the amazing hill tribes, their villages, and terraced rice paddy landscape. To visit the tribal villages, you must have a licensed tour guide with you. We hiked through the hill towns and then left on a five-day, 4WD trek, through more hills and villages, with one home stay, back to Hanoi.

The women below are from the Black Zhao hill tribe, where blackened teeth are considered beautiful.




One of our hiking guides, April (not her real name), age 19, is from one of the hill tribes. She told us a bit about her family and arranged marriages in Vietnam. Her sister, at age 14, was betrothed by her parents to a man she didn't know. She committed suicide "by eating poison leaf." When April turned 14, her parents yet again arranged a marriage for her with a man she didn't know. She told her parents she was too young to marry, she didn't know the man, and she wanted to go to university to study music. Her parents declared that if she didn't go through with the marriage, she would no longer be their daughter. So she passed on the marriage, finished school, studied music, and now works as a tour guide. While she gets settled, she is living with her other married sister's family. Her parents passed away while April was in school. I told April that I thought she was very smart and courageous, and that it takes women standing up and saying no for sexist practices to change and women to control their own lives. When I told her about bride burnings in India, where brides are not only often betrothed, but must provide an ample dowry or the groom's family might douse her in gasoline and light her on fire, April was surprised to find that arranged marriage and other such practices occur in other countries as well. (Bride burnings are currently illegal in India but they still happen. One such incidence was reported in the newspaper while we were there.)

Women have come a long way in Vietnam (and most of Asia), but sexism and misogyny are still alive. When I mentioned to one 20-something man that women own most businesses in Vietnam, he agreed, but said that was because shop-owning is often considered too "simple" a vocation for men. When we arranged our 5-day trek with the tour agency owner, who had assigned April to us earlier in the week, he assured us that our new guide was "very good-- a man--not just a girl." Gar. We assured him that April had done a fabulous, knowledgeable job, and we would ask for her again.

So we had one paid tour date with April. Then she invited us for a hike the next day, her day off, "just for fun"! We hiked on and off trail, up and down rice paddies and through villages. At some more vertical points I felt like handicapped Clara trying to keep up with mountain goat Heidi on Grandfather's mountain. (But I was vindicated during my visit home, when I hiked sweat- and huffing/puffing-free through previously challenging trails.)

Here's a picture of the kitchen area in one of the village homes.

On our trek back to Hanoi, we visited villages Lao Cai, Lai Chau, Son La, and Dien Bien Phu, site of the 1954 57-day siege between the French and Vietnamese that ended French occupation in Vietnam and paved the way for Vietnam's division into North and South. The Vietnamese, with paltry arms compared to the French, won Dien Bien Phu, with the French general committing suicide. Subsequently, before the American/Vietnamese war, the French warned the Americans that interfering in Vietnam would be ill advised. [cough]

French Bunker and Trenches in Dien Bien Phu

French Prison Hoa La

La Toilette: Where Prisoners Wrote Their Manifestos and Escape Plans

Eric and Our Guide Manh on French Tank



Vietnamese Artillery ~ They had no tanks

Vietnamese Hero Who Through Himself In Front of a Cannon Blast
to Save the Rest of His Company

Execution Wall

Vietnamese Hero's Grave ~ or, War, What is It Good For

Traditional Vietnamese Thai Village Family House

Duong (left of me) started talking to us as we walked through one of the villages.

We Are Family

Duong invited us into her home for tea, where we met the rest of her family. Duong has had a couple years of English and showed us her textbooks. As we have found for ourselves with foreign languages, Duong could understand some of what we said but hesitated in speaking herself. Manh, our guide, was our interpreter. As we were leaving, Duong's mother invited us for lunch too.

Inside Duong's Home

Duong's home was much like the home where we spent the night on our homestay. The family lives on the second floor, with rooms divided by sheets strung between the walls and support columns. Often, livestock live on the ground floor.

More pics from Sapa hikes ~



Scorpions and snakes in liquor are popular drinks, especially to sell to tourists. When Eric had a glass of wine that had been stewing in goat testicles, I made him brush his teeth before coming near me.

Mah-jong, anyone?